Roman Forts of Kharga Oasis
Ain
Umm Dabadib
Ain Umm Dabadib
is a major ancient settlement located to the north of Qasr Kharga in Kharga
Oasis in Egypt's Western Desert. The site, primarily Roman, is an amazing
collection of buildings, tombs, and aqueducts. Most distinguished among
the ruins is this mudbrick fortress, which looms high above all the other
ruins. It is distinctive in that the towers are squared, while the towers
in most of the fortresses in Kharga are usually rounded.
Other ruins at
Ain Umm Dabadib include a slant-sided temple, a Coptic church, numerous
tombs, and four underground aqueducts (called foggara (e) in Libya and
monafis or manawa in Kharga). They run for over 13 kilometers with
vents for cleaning and repairs every few meters.
Little is known
about "Dabadib" as excavation has been limited and sporadic, so word is
still out on who constructed the aqueducts. The consensus is the Romans
or the Persians. Because similar systems exist throughout North Africa,
the Middle East, and as far east as China, the Persians seem to have the
lead. Dabadib was described by John Ball and Hugh Beadnell (who actually
entered the aqueducts and traced them to their source) around 1900, and
Ahmed Fakhry, the first Egyptian desert archaeologist, in the 1930s. Recent
work conducted by the Egyptian Antiquities Organization's local inspectors
concurs that Dabadib is an important desert site.
El Deir
El Deir is another
majestic mudbrick Roman ruin lying northeast of Qasr Kharga in Kharga Oasis.
It sits at the terminus of the Darb el Deir, a major caravan trail from
the Nile Valley. There is ample evidence that this road was used by the
Romans. In fact, watering stations have been discovered along its route.
The name of the road and the fort, "El Deir," means "the monastery," which
indicates its use in early Christian times. The fort was also occupied
by Turkish and British soldiers in this century and they have left abundant
graffiti on its interior walls. The twelve rounded towers are connected
by a walkway. It has a well it its courtyard and there are no indications
of underground aqueducts. The fort is only one of the ruins at this site,
there is also a temple, and several other buildings, all at least 10 feet
high. There is also a cemetery. The entire site remains unexcavated.
Qasr el Labeka
Qasr el Labeka is located
northeast of Qasr Kharga in Kharga Oasis not far from El Deir. It is
connected to Ain Umm Dabadib (see above) by two desert tracks: a camel
track and a caravan trail. It is an extensive site dramatically situated
beneath the pastel northern cliffs. At Labeka are two temples, at
least one aqueduct, a large cemetery, and a fortress. The fortress,
shown in the photograph, is its most intriguing ruin. As with most of the
Roman defensive structures at Kharga Oasis, the fortress has rounded towers
at each corner. The exterior walls remain mostly intact while the interior
has collapsed into rubble. It
must have featured prominently in life along the Darb el Arbain, the ancient
north-south slaver's route from Sudan to Asyut, an Egyptian Nile Valley
city. Recent archaeological work at Labeka may prove that one of the temples
is dedicated to Hercules. This would be a very important discovery.
Qasr Sumaria and Qasr el Geb
Qasr Sumaria
(in photo) and Qasr el Geb are less than a mile apart along the desert
floor and look almost exactly alike. Sumaria is in the center of an ancient
community and several other buildings accompany it. Geb is the northern-most
ancient structure along the Darb el Arbain in Kharga Oasis and sits atop
a mound of shards and other debris. Both buildings had rounded towers.
These two small fortresses are very close to Qasr el Labeka and to several
other sites that now have nothing above ground to show. In fact, there
is one temple at Kharga that stands at the whim of the wind. Sometimes
its top pylon is exposed for us to see, sometimes it is covered by the
desert sands. Without proper excavation, it remains difficult to find.
There are other ruins in Kharga,
some equally as stunning as these fortresses. They include temples, pigeon
houses, watchtowers, kilns, homes, cemeteries and in some instances communities.
In fact, in the 1930s, Ahmed Fakhry estimated nearly 200 archaeological
sites in Kharga Oasis.
The Western Desert of Egypt:
An Explorer's Handbook
The Roman Forts of
Kharga Oasis are featured in the book The Western Desert of Egypt: An Explorer's
Handbook by Cassandra Vivian. It will reach the market in September 1999.
Published by The American University in Cairo Press, this 400+ page book
covers all areas of the Western Desert including the Gilf Kebir of The
English Patient fame, Gebel Uwaynat with its abundance of rock art, the
famous slaver's route the Darb el Arbain, and all the oases. It deals with
geology, geography, explorers and travelers, history, people, crafts, caravan
roads, and historic sites. With excellent maps of the desert, oases, villages,
and sites, it features GPS Waypoints to popular locations. Used by scientists
and laymen, it is the definitive book on the Western Desert. For information
about ordering in the United States and Europe contact us at our email
address below and we will notify you when it becomes available.
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